(from a memoir written to a young grandson)
I do not know whether the owner of the Main Street house wanted to live in it or whether my parents just wanted to move to another house. For some reason, when I was about three, we moved to the Bradley House on upper Market Street. It was called “upper” because it was at the end of the street further away from Main Street and up the hill.
Ours was the last house on that side of the street. Next to it there were fields and the open country.
It was called the Bradley House because it was owned by Mr. Bradley. He did not need to use the house at the time, because he was the county sheriff and he and his wife lived in the sheriff’s living quarters which were provided in the county jail building, a rather noisy place. The county jail was in Salem, because Salem was then and for many years afterward the county seat of Roanoke County.
The jail was built onto the back of the court house and just across the street from the Southern Methodist Episcopal Church which we attended. That was not so good for the church, especially during the summer. When the windows were open (no air conditioning) the prisoners in the jail would stand at the bars—the jail windows would be open too—and yell loud, rude remarks while the minister was trying to preach or pray. Sometimes they would sing the hymns—very loud.
Mrs. Bradley cooked for the prisoners. She was paid to buy the food, cook it and feed the prisoners. She probably got about fifteen cents a day for each one and must have made a little profit on that. Of course they probably complained a lot. In those days the people on the outside didn’t think people in jail should be kept too comfortable.
When we moved to the Bradley House, our furniture, clothes and everything were moved from Main Street to Market Street in an open farm wagon pulled by one horse. We walked. The owner and driver of the wagon was a deaf man who could not speak. He could load and unload the wagon and move things around. Everybody called him Andy Brown. He had a family, a wife and children, living on Main Street.
I remember that when one load arrived I was watching from the porch which was on the front of the house and along part of one side. On that load was a rather large round oak dining room table. The top had been taken off and with it was the big round pedestal that went under the middle to hold it up.
This was another two story wood clapboard house, with a decorative wire fence across the front on Market Street and a gate. It was on a rather large lot with a big vegetable garden on the back part.
It was a pretty good garden and my father raised a lot of vegetables, but we did have trouble keeping out the Bermuda grass, which we called wire grass. This grass was tough and hard, one piece sometimes growing eight fee long or more.
Once my father dug up a potato which had a piece of wire grass growing through it—in one side and out the other.
On the back of the lot, behind the house, there was a medium size barn with room enough for a horse and cow, which we did not have. We kept chickens there, with an outside pen for their exercise.
The Pigs
While we lived in the Bradley House we raised pigs. I was a bit too small to be given any duties in caring for the pigs.
Way down on the back of the lot, near the barn, there was a hog pen made of boards, with a rough board floor, big enough for two or three pigs.
Like many women living on farms and in small towns in those days, my mother had to take care of the hogs while my father was working in Roanoke. Lots of water was carried down to the hog pen for the hogs to drink. There was a big pail, which we called a bucket, on the back porch for raw vegetable trimmings, like carrot and beet tops, potato peels and such things, as well as left over scraps of cooked food. All of this, mixed with water, was carried down to the hog pen and poured into their trough as part of their food. This mixture went by the name of “hog slop”. When a person fed the hogs, it was sometimes said that he was slopping the hogs.
To finish out the hog’s diet, different kinds of dry mash and grains were bought from the feed store. The pigs also ate green things like weeds from the garden or fields.
Hog-killing Time
Along about the early part of November, the hogs would have grown large and fat and it was time to prepare them for eating during the winter.
When the weather had gotten cool, my father would hire two men to come and kill the hogs. Cool weather was needed so that the meat would cool fairly quickly while it was still in the best condition. The men would arrive about six o’clock in the morning just about daybreak or a little before it was light. I always wanted to go down to the hog pen and watch the hog-killing, but my mother would never let me do that.
I didn’t want to miss everything, so each year I would get up very early and climb up on the ice chest or refrigerator where I could sit and look out a high window in the kitchen pantry with a pretty good view of what was going on.
The men would shoot a hog in the head for a quick kill.
Before that they would have built a fire and heated a big kettle of water so that it was boiling. This was set under a tripod with pulleys and chains rigged up so that they could pull a hog over to the kettle, put a chain on the hog’s hind leg, lift it up, dip it into the boiling water and lift it out again.
This scalding of the hog was necessary so that the men could use sharp knives to scrape off the stiff hair or bristles from the hog’s skin.
When the hair was off, the men cleaned the hog, cut it into about six big pieces and carried them up to the kitchen in the house, where my mother, and maybe a relative or friend who might be helping, had been working hard building a fire in the kitchen range, getting in coal to keep the fire going for as much as eighteen hours and getting ready for the big job of preparing the meat to be kept for use all winter.
When the big pieces of meat were brought into the kitchen, the long day’s work began. The large pieces were first separated into the different cuts used for various purposes. The hams and shoulders (the large pieces of the back and front legs) were trimmed of some of the fat, then were rubbed and packed with salt, pepper, sugar and spices so they could be hung in the cool cellar, which was like a basement with dirt walls and floor, where they would last all winter until they were eaten.
There were some chops, loin slices and other parts which were packaged separately.
The side pieces were prepared and cured, very much like the hams and shoulders, for breakfast bacon. Other pieces of the side meat which did not make good bacon were cut into strips or chunks call fat meat or steak-of-lean (often pronounced streak-a-lean) meat if there were lean streaks in it.
Among other things, this fat meat was used by putting a piece in the pan when cooking green beans, which were cooked for as much as two or three hours, or with dried beans and other dishes. You could also throw in a piece when you were making soup. This style of using lots of fat meat and long cooking is sometimes called “Southern Cooking”.
Small pieces, scraps and trimmings of lean meat were ground up with sage, pepper, salt and other seasonings to make sausage. This was usually packed in half gallon tin containers or in crocks—stoneware containers—with some lard, made from the hog’s fat, cooked and put away for use during the winter.
Everything had to be prepared carefully to keep during the winter. Houses did not have freezers to preserved food; the ice refrigerators were not very cold and most people did not use their refrigerators in the winter. For one thing, there was not even any delivery of ice in the winter from the ice plant in town where ice was frozen.
When the hog was large or there were two hogs, there was so much sausage meat that it was taken to a butcher where arrangements had been made to have him put it through his large electric meat grinder. Then it was brought home, cooked and packed in cans or crocks for keeping.
Many other kinds of meat were prepared from the hogs. The large hog’s liver was cooked a little and ground to make liver pudding—usually just called pudding. This is a very rich food. When it had cooled, it was stored away for the winter. When needed, it was sliced and fried to make a tasty breakfast dish.
Some of the left over liquid from cooking sausage and other meat and various bits and pieces of meat were stirred into some corn meal. This was boiled for a while, cooled and stored away. It is called scrapple. A few slices browned in a frying pan is good to eat for breakfast.
One interesting food, not enjoyed by everyone, is souse. Some people call it head cheese, but I never thought that was a very appetizing name. This must have been invented because no one could think of any other way to use some of the things left over from the hog. The soft cartilage and little pieces of lean meat from the head, ears, snout and feet of the hog were cut into small pieces, mixed together and cooked. When cooled, the whole thing ended up bound together by the gelatin which came from the cartilage. It was usually eaten cold in small slices, served, usually with vinegar, as a sort of appetizer or relish. People who, like my father, enjoyed this dish, really liked it a lot. Other people, or maybe most people, don’t like it at all and would never think of eating it.
There may have been a few other things that were prepared. One of the last things was the rendering of the lard. All of the left over fat meat, which was many pounds, was put into flat pans, heated and cooked to melt out the fat and that became lard. Lard was used for cooking—even for pies, cakes and cookies. Few people could get anything like peanut oil or other vegetable oils at that time.